Raw Denim Sizing Guide: How to Buy, Break In, and Size Selvedge Denim
Raw denim shrinks. Here's exactly how much to size up, which brands run truest to size, and how to break in your jeans for a perfect fit.
Sizing at a glance
Levi's fits true to size using numeric waist sizing. Check inseam length as cuts vary by style.
Naked & Famous runs small with raw selvedge denim that stretches with wear. Size up one.
Iron Heart runs small with heavy Japanese selvedge denim. Size up one to two. Shrinks with first wash.
Nudie Jeans runs small, particularly in raw and dry denim. Size up one in rigid styles. Stretch denim fits true to size. Loose fits like Steady Eddie run generously. Raw denim will also stretch and mould to your body over time.
Edwin runs small with a slim Japanese denim cut. Size up one.
Get your exact size in Levi's & Naked & Famous & Iron Heart & Nudie Jeans & Edwin Jeans, based on your real measurements, not generic charts.
Build My Fit ProfileWhat is Raw Denim? {#what-is-raw-denim}
Raw denim (also called dry denim or selvedge denim) is denim that has not been pre-washed or pre-shrunk after dyeing. Unlike regular jeans, raw denim will shrink and mold to your body over time, which is both the challenge and the appeal.
The result of properly broken-in raw denim is a pair of jeans that fits like no other, with fades, honeycombs, and whiskers unique to your body and lifestyle.
How Much Does Raw Denim Shrink? {#how-much-does-it-shrink}
The amount of shrinkage depends on the fabric weight and construction:
Standard raw denim (12-14oz): Shrinks approximately 1-1.5 inches in the waist and 1-2 inches in length after the first soak or wash.
Heavyweight raw denim (16oz+, e.g. Iron Heart): Can shrink up to 2 inches in the waist and 2-3 inches in length.
Sanforized raw denim: Pre-shrunk during manufacturing. Shrinks very little (less than 1%) — closer to regular jeans behaviour. Most modern raw denim brands use sanforized fabric.
Unsanforized raw denim: Will shrink significantly. This is the traditional type — Iron Heart, some Samurai Japan styles.
How to Size Raw Denim {#how-to-size}
For sanforized raw denim (most brands):
Buy your true waist size. The jeans will stretch slightly at the waist with wear but won't shrink significantly. If you're between sizes, size up.
For unsanforized raw denim:
Size up 1 inch in the waist to account for shrinkage. For length, buy 2-3 inches longer than your usual inseam if you plan to soak.
The pinch test:
Put on the jeans and pinch the waist. You should be able to pinch about 1 inch of fabric, this accounts for movement and any residual shrinkage. Less than that and the jeans are too tight. More than 2 inches and they're too loose.
Sizing by Brand {#by-brand}
Levi's (Vintage Clothing, raw styles): Sanforized. Buy your true waist size. LVC jeans run slim — size up one in the waist if you're fuller through the thigh.
Naked & Famous: Sanforized. Runs small — size up one from your true waist measurement.
Iron Heart: Unsanforized, heavyweight (21oz). Size up 1-2 inches in the waist. Expect significant shrinkage on first soak.
Edwin (ED-55, ED-80): Sanforized Japanese denim. Runs small — size up one.
Nudie Jeans: Organic raw denim, sanforized. Runs slim — size up one for comfort.
APC Petit New Standard: Unsanforized. Buy your true size — these are designed to stretch 1-2 sizes with wear and then shrunk back.
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Get My Sizes FreeBreaking In Your Raw Denim {#breaking-in}
Raw denim is stiff when new. Breaking them in takes 3-6 months of regular wear. The process:
Weeks 1-4: Wear as much as possible. The denim will be uncomfortable at first — stiff, dark indigo, and unforgiving. Push through. The waist will loosen by about half an inch.
Month 2-3: The jeans start to relax and take the shape of your body. Whiskers form at the thighs and behind the knees (honeycombs). The indigo begins to fade at stress points.
Month 4-6: First wash. The jeans will shrink slightly and the fades will become more defined. After drying, the jeans will have a personalized fade pattern unique to how you wear them.
Soak vs No-Wash {#soaking-vs-no-wash}
Hot soak before wearing (recommended for unsanforized):
Fill a bathtub with hot water. Soak the jeans (inside out) for 30-45 minutes. Hang dry, do not put in the dryer. This pre-shrinks the jeans before breaking them in, giving you more accurate sizing from the start.
No-wash (raw purists):
Wear the jeans for 6+ months before washing. Produces the most dramatic fades and most personalized fit. Only recommended for sanforized denim, unsanforized jeans worn this long before washing will shrink dramatically at first wash.
Cold wash (maintenance):
Once broken in, wash inside out in cold water with a gentle detergent. Air dry. This maintains the fades while keeping the jeans clean.
Use ThisFits to get your exact size recommendation for any raw denim brand, paste the product URL for an instant fit check.
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